Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with Wanderer

(10 customer reviews)

$305.54

Negative Grounding controller with battery reversed, overloading, short-circuit and over charging/discharging protection ensures the broader off grid applications and safety. Especially can be used on a vehicle which has battery negative on the chassis
The Charge controller has been upgraded to Renogy’ S New 30A PWM Negative-Ground charge controller – the Renogy wanderer
With the Renogy wanderer 30A PWM charge Controller, you can expand your system up to a maximum of 400W
Monocrystalline solar cell efficiency: 21%;Ideal output: 1000Wh per day; can fully charge a 50Ah Battery from 50% in 1. 5 hours (depending on the availability of sunlight)
The kit now includes an 8Ft 10AWG tray cable to connect your charge controller and battery

Description

Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with Wanderer

solar panel,solar panel kit,100w solar panel,200w solar panel,rv kit,solar battery charge,solar char

Additional information

Size

MPPT-Rover20, MPPT-Rover40, PWM-Wanderer

10 reviews for Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with Wanderer

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    Christine J. Breen

    I fixed up the two panels so I could use them as a briefcase. I first checked the panels out and matched them to the specs sheet and they performed as advertised. The instructions from Renogy were right on and I proceeded as instructed. They were sent to me by #AdventureUninterupted and arrived in two days through Amazon Prime. I made my setup using a piano hinge to join the panels and then 50 amp plugs so I would be able to hook up the battery before the Controller to the panels remembering that you must cover the panels so they produce no voltage thus no amperage potential. I did this with a cargo blanket that I’ve modified to cover and carry the panels, controller and wiring harness.

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    Irgunr

    Great Solar system for the price. I installed this on my 5th wheel 4 months ago and it is keeping my batteries charged to there peek all the time. I did a week of camping with out power hook ups and this system was strong enough to recharge my batteries during the day and left me with enough power to use all the lights and my TV all I wanted during the night. I’m using 2 6v golf cart batteries to run my camper. each battery is 215ah.

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    JTFC6

    I installed this kit in my motor home to eliminate having to run the generator or plug in to shore power every couple of days. I would recommend adding an inline fuse and a cutoff switch if you purchase this kit. Everything included from Renogy was packaged securely and all components seem to work as expected. This was my first solar install and I had no background in this technology so I watched a few YouTube videos to get an idea of how others were doing their installs. Overall I am very happy with this product.

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    J. Bowman

    Installed this system on my Toy Hauler RV. It is keeping the two batteries charged very nicely. We can watch a movie at night, and the batteries are fully charged by the next evening. I suspect we could watch a couple of movies, but I haven’t done this yet. We use LED light bulbs throughout the RV to reduce consumption. I wish more people would go solar and use their generators less. Solar won’t power the microwave or air conditioner, but it powers everything else.Some people complain about the controller, but I think it does fine. The complaint is that it doesn’t have a meter to show voltage or current. In my opinion, you only want this in the beginning to see how efficient your system is. The controller has LEDs that show when it is charging and when it is in maintenance charge mode (batteries full). I have an inexpensive volt meter that plugs into the 12 volt outlet. Good enough for me.Do not buy the huge fuse holder and 100A fuses that appear as “Items other people bought with this.” The correct fuses are 15A and 30A, and you can use standard automotive fuse holders. There is an inexpensive meter that appears when you purchase this, and I recommend that you fully read the instructions and develop a plan before buying it. This meter can only tell you what is happening at the point of installation. For example, some people install this between the panels and the controller (shows panel output), between the controller and the batteries (shows controller output), or between the batteries and the load (shows what the appliances are actually using from the battery). In my opinion, the last application is the only one I care about on an ongoing basis, and the installation for this application is independent of the solar install.Also, take the time to look up the recommended roof attachment procedures for your type of roof. I have an EPM roof, so I looked at the manufacturer videos for attaching a fan to an EPM roof and used those as a guide. I was surprised to learn that butyl tape is the first line of defense and the self-leveling caulk was the second line of defense. If the roof leaks, dry rot will likely follow, and that can be expensive at best or ruin the RV.Some people commented that the connectors are difficult to separate, but there is an inexpensive tool you can buy at checkout to make this easy.The instructions say to hook up the solar panels last or cover them so they don’t produce a charge until after they are connected to the controller. I cut cardboard covers from the shipping box and taped them to the panels. This allowed me to lay out everything before the final attachment.

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    Richard

    I’ve been using these Renogy 100 watt solar panels now for about two years and I have to say that so far they have worked flawlessly! I have 200 watts of panels mounted to the roof of our house and wired to a 180 amp/hour interstate battery bank for when we have power outages. They are connected to a 800 watt inverter which is hard wired to 4 outlets, 1 each in a different room of the house, and whenever our power goes out we just simply flip the circuit breaker on and plug in. No noise and inexpensive. This has been such a good backup power supply and works every time! So what all do we power with this system? We usually run a 60″ flat screen, wireless router, lights in each room if needed, and a fan if it’s hot. If needed we could power our refrigerator and freezer, but our power outages or usually less than 24 hours.

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    D.S.

    This is a great solar system and performs well. It is relatively easy to install.Now that we have had this a while in our van, I would like to update my review: we bought a 12v deep cycle battery with 115 watt hours. We use it for lighting, a roof vent, a 12v (10w) lunch box food warmer and a very large 12v cooler. It works so fantastic that we now are now thinking about getting another for our travel trailer as well.

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    Scott A. Franco

    I installed this on my trailer. I liked the fact that the charge controller could have handled up to four panels. The 200w setup is adequate for my needs. I added a second deep discharge battery to the trailer to contain the charge. I also added a sine wave inverter to operate the 110v appliances in the trailer, direct connected to the battery.After installing the panels on the roof, I don’t plug the trailer in anymore to charge it. The entire system is capable of running a few light appliances like TVs, power drills, etc. It cannot run the air conditioner, microwave, or other high power appliance. I have not experienced running out of power at night, but then I haven’t really tried to stress it. One time when the power was out in the house, I used the system to run a light and a drill. Nice to have a backup power source.Installation was easy, although I didn’t use the provided tiedown fasteners. I actually liked the tiedown fasteners described in the manual, which are rubber expanding bolts that hold the mounts secure from the back side. However, that was not what came with the panels. I found that the roof was actually something like 3/8 plywood decking, and used wood screws and proper roof sealant throughout.One hint I would give is to NOT try out the snap in power connectors before you are ready. They are unbelievably difficult to get apart again.I don’t know why everyone is so down on the controller. It works fine, and gives good status indications. Apparently the “ultimate” charge controller is supposed to be a Maximum power point tracking (MPPT) controller. But according to what I have read, this means it optimizes charging my knowing where the sun is at maximum, by remembering the peak power generation time of the panel. This would have no use in any case for a trailer, because that is going to change when you move the trailer.

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    Cole P.

    I’m using this setup to power an accessory battery in a camper van. It has been up and running for three months now and I’m very happy with the results. The kit was easy to install and worked perfectly right out of the package.The only additional material I needed was VHB Tape, which I used to mount the brackets to my roof. The panels are very secure and I have had no issues. I would definitely suggest this method to anyone who doesn’t want to put 16 holes into their mounting surface.

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    doug

    Does what is advertised. I made a custom rack for the back of our 30 ft. travel trailer and remove the panels to “follow” the sun. I am not certain flat mounted on a roof would provide enough usable power for me. Really charges fast on a bright sunny day, even overcast works well too. I am charging a 12 volt power group 45978 100 amp hour with a 2500 watt inverter, and separate system for the original two 12 volt house batteries. I just change the “alligator” clips from one system to the other. Don’t use the generator any more, I do bring it just in case.Update- feb 2017. We have been away to Arizona for two months, boondocking, zero problems with the system! We now have two 100 ah batteries and with the inverter we run micro, coffee maker, tv, dvd, all lights, heater etc. We have table top cooker and use the generator only for that. Nice to go a week at a time without the generator. Quiet. YA!

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    sdr

    Installed this 200w kit on my 2005 Sierra sport rv. I went with the fridge vent wiring method by taking off vent cover, clipping a hole in the screen and feeding it down. This kit was easy to install with basic tools. Don’t forget to seal roof when you screen panels in. Add fuses or breakers on the positive of both the battery side and solar. I paired this with a 750 watt inverter to run a few basic items in my rv. Will do great charging power wheels. Electronics etc. And hey…less generator usage!!

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