MOES Dual Power Controller 50A 5500 Watt Automatic Transfer Switch for Off Grid Solar Wind System ATS DC 12V 24V 48V AC 110V 220V

(10 customer reviews)

Price: $119.00

1.★Beneficial to Solar or Wind System:On cloudy or windless days when your battery gets low, it will automatically switch to grid power, protect your battery.
2.★Works like an opposite direction UPS: The ATS controller will switch to grid power when batteries votagle are lower than cut off point,it will switch back to battery power when the batteries votagle are higher than recovery point.
3.★Auto distinguish:DC 12/24/48V,AC 100-120V 60HZ / 220-240V 50HZ auto distinguish.User can define the Cut-Off and Recovery Voltages.Recovery voltage must be higher than Cut-off voltage. Battery type: Suitable for Sealed,Gel,Lead-acid,Lithium battery and so on. as long as the voltage of your battery are within the voltage ranges in the followings.9-17V at 12V system;18-30V at 24V system; 30-60V at 48V system.
4.★Big Power:5.5kw(110V) or 11KW(220v),Fast Transfer time:Inverter transfer to public power ≤10ms,public power transfer to inverter ≤16ms.
5.★LCD display:Battery real-time voltage;working status of public power,inverter and battery.

Brand MOES



Additional information



10 reviews for MOES Dual Power Controller 50A 5500 Watt Automatic Transfer Switch for Off Grid Solar Wind System ATS DC 12V 24V 48V AC 110V 220V

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    Francois Guyot

    I love that I can program the low/high voltages cutoff/resume to trigger the switching.This ATS puts my inverter on hold while switching to grid when batteries are low, and resume to inverter mode by default. Since I’m not feeding the grid, I do not have to worry about permits nor frying anyone should its power fails.My system is very minimal, using only a 2p4S UPS lead acid batteries each about 18Ah. So at 48VDC I get 32Ah.However, when my 2000W inverter kicks in each mornings, it maintains the batteries charged, while powering 2 fridges rated at 6.5A and 7.1A, some pond pumps at 2A on a timer, and a ceiling fan 2.5A also on a timer. Since these are surge currents, most of the time my inverter is really idling around 3A. So my electricity usage is cut by half because these main loads are working 24/7. This simple setup saves me about 2.5KW each day. Actually I could have put all the loads on a timer and not buy this ATS, but the fridges must stay on at all time. Moreover, in the future I plan to drive some heavier loads like charging some EVs and I will then get some substantial Lithium battery banks. When I do, these programmable voltage cutoffs will come handy. So I kept this ATS… But if you don’t need this feature along with the 12,24,48V auto recognition then save 2/3 the cost. Buy instead a cheaper reliable ATS and that should work as well.

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    Amazon Customer

    I live in northern Arizona and have had a hybrid solar setup for 3 years now. I have a large 12v battery bank with 2 separate inverters as well as grid power. I have been trying to rely less on the public power company.My system works like a dream until last winter when I was away. We had almost no sun while I was gone and my batteries got down to a really low level. The batteries have never been the same – not as efficient.I stumbled upon this product and almost couldn’t believe it. It appeared to be just the thing for my solar setup. I hooked it up. Like another purchaser, hooked my grid ground to inverter ground to ac output ground. I hooked it up to one of my inverters that runs my huge refrigerator w/icemaker and deep freezer. I set the lower switching voltage to 12.2 and the upper to 14.4 (I want the batteries to charge up really well in the morning before it switches the fridge and freezer back to the batteries)THIS THING REALLY WORKED! It switched the power from inverters to the grid so fast that the fridge didn’t even notice. Usually the fridge’s computer buttons light up and beep when there is a interruption to power. Like I said, it kept humming along like nothing happened.I ordered a second one to switch my computers, DVR, flatscreen TV, etc. I will be setting the switching voltages for that inverter so that they switch back to grid only when the batteries get much lower.I am a happy customer, and would recommend this to anyone who has tried on their own to get the best of both worlds between solar and grid power.

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    steve “O”

    When the unit is turned off the load is connected to the grid. Switched on it will use inverter power as long as the battery bank is above the limit you set. This way you can decide to use your inverter or not. When turned on If the batteries get below the limit it will switch to grid power automatically. There is only one issue that could arise, if your inverter is off and the batteries are charged it will switch to inverter power even though there is no inverter power. This obviously leaves no power on the load side. It would be even better if the unit would not switch to inverter power unless the inverter power was on. But that said its still a great product.

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    I bought this Automatic transfer switch for my new off grid 4000W solar system. It is amazing and smart. The followings are the points I have summarized after using it for some time.A. The trouble with me has disappeared because of this device. As we all know, grid tie solar system is very expensive, and off grid system stop charging battries for a period of time in rainy day which will affect my experience. This ATS can solve this problem perfectly. When batteries run down it will automatically switch to public power (1. protect the battery pack, 2 The power at house won’t be cut off). When battery pack has been charged to the point set up, house will be rechanged from the battery-inverter, so I can save lots of costs in electricity bill every month and only need to spend a small amount of money on an off-grid solar system.B. This product comes with no cables, so you still need 1. Male cord , used to plug into a socket of a public electricity grid. 2. Male cord, used to connect to your inverter socket, 3. Female cord, used to connect to your load. 4. Wires, used to connected to the battery pack, not need to be very thick, it is just used to monitor the battery voltage. The wire from battery to inverter shall be additionally connected. For those of us in the United States, the black line to the L, white line to N. (I suggest you to employ a professional electrician to cover all of wiring work if you don’t have relevant knowledge of electrical wiring)C.Pls DO NOT get it wrong when you set the Cut-off voltage and Recovery voltage. As seller reminded, Cut-off voltage must be lower than Recovery voltage.I’d love to DIY and try new appliances and products, I will keep an eye on this seller and contibue buying products from them as I think their products and ideas are very good and interesting! When I am free I will share my use feeling and discuss it with you guys.Regarding the dual power transfer controller ,I would really recommend it to anyone who has a (5K Watt or less) solar system. 5 stars but how I wish I could give them more! 

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    I have been playing and testing the unit now for more than 2 weeks (on pension – have enough time).I am impressed with the change-over time, between Public Power to Inverter, and back. – There is absolutely no flick of the house lights, or on any of on the PCs monitors or the TV.The unit has enabled me to get the most out of my solar panels and my battery bank, without letting my battery voltage go below 12.5 Volt (after a 2 hour rest).I have set the regulation of my battery bank (3 x 102AH – 306AH – Flooded lead acid – deep cycle) to Public Power at 12.1 Volt and change back to Inverter at 13.8 Volt.Thus allowing me to protect the live time of my batteries, and optimize the sun power (of which we have a lot in South Africa) during the daytime and the wind power in the evenings.I can recommend the product – it works really well.J.S

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    This is magic, there should be a 10 star. I don’t even know how I searched for this item, but this is exactly what I was thinking about. I have two separate solar systems (no utility power), and my home gadgets (TV, Fridge, lights, chargers, etc) only uses DC but was seeing that you can only connect through the inverter. When I asked the seller about the usage in two solar systems, with only DC applications, the seller responded in minutes (as if he was seeing me type) with online manual for DC only application. I immediately ordered, received it well packed (like gold inside), arrived in time and is working perfectly with my two solar DC appliances.

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    I’ve read some reviews on this ATS and found that some folk are not understanding what the upper and lower limit setting do. Programming the lower limit setting simply stops the inverter from pulling off of the battery bank and switches over to utility power (or generator). Programming the high voltage limit simply switches back to battery inverter power. Finally, the middle setting is just the present battery voltage. So, all of the settings are DC (direct current) settings and have nothing to with setting the AC voltages.

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    Donald J.

    Ok I wired this up using 8 awg temco welding cables and pin terminals and crimper and added light up 3 prong outlets to neutral and Hot line only no ground. I did the city power with male 3 prong end and plugged it into an outlet .the inverter on my wind and solar hybrid has 3.5kw puresine 7.5 max 30 amp rv port hardwired with 6/3carol wire then runs to the house inside and i wired 8 awg neutral and hot to another male 3 prong and plugged it into the inverter outlet .middle AC OUT 8 awg neutral and hot to female inlet and hooked up a industrial power strip running a small fridge .smart tv 55 inch QLED 8X hdmi and ps4pro psvr and all chargers .litjium ion chargers and radios and cell phones and 2 other recharchable and other battery chargers and misc other small devices .works very good with oxygen consetrator and the bipap.

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    C. Graham

    After further testing I have determined that I misunderstood what the HV setting was for. I assumed it would switch the power if the power became too high, but I was wrong, and it is actually the voltage setting that will trigger the unit to switch back to the battery once the voltage has risen. After lowering my HV setting I find that the controller is indeed switching back to the battery as expected. I have revised my rating from 1 star to 5 stars now, and I am quite satisfied with this product at the moment.—original review—I have this item setup on a test system with a lithium ion battery. High voltage cutoff is set at 14.6, low voltage cutoff is set at 12.0 volts. Unit switches me to wall power when the battery reaches the low voltage cutoff of 12.0 volts, but does not return to battery power once the battery has risen above 12.0 volts. Even when battery is back to 12.7 volts, I have to either cycle the power switch on the unit, or remove reconnect the 12 volt power plug, or programmatically change the Low voltage cutoff value for the unit to switch back to battery powered feed.

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    This unit works as expected. Easy to program and switches reliably. This unit switches based on the voltage of the battery, but I wish it had a manual input built in for external control such as with a relay or micro controller, but it can still be done if you wanted to 🙂 I currently have it switching from my batteries to the grid when ever the batteries get low. I have a BMV-712 from Victron, and I’ll be switching the transfer switch based off actual state-of-charge soon. It can be done by tricking this transfer switch into thinking the voltageis higher or lower then it really is using a dc-dc buck converter.

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